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The Front Palace housed the heir to the throne, who was appointed by the King; usually a son or brother of the reigning monarch who bare the title "Second King" or "Vice-King". The title of Second King started in the Ayutthaya Period, but gained a significant amount of power during the Rattanakosin Period when the Second King even got its own private army and navy. This large amount of power often led to conflicts between the King and the Second King. The last to bare the title of Second King was Prince Vichaichan. In 1884, he got into a power struggle with King Rama V in an event known as the Front Palace crisis. King Rama V tried to modernise Siam in a rapid pace, and conservative forces and the nobility, including Prince Vichaichan, saw their power and influence being slowly eroded. When Prince Vichaichan got a letter threatening his life, he mobilised up to 600 of his private troops around his palace. The King also mobilised his troops, but this only underlined that the Second King's guards were more numerous and better equipped. After an explosion, a mysterious fire broke out in the Grand Palace, threatening Wat Phra Kaeo, and the Second King's troops got on their way to the Grand Palace to try and extinguish it; however this was blocked by the King's Royal Guards who feared that the fire was orchestrated by the Second King to take over the country. Afterwards King Rama V criticised the Second King for not moving all his troops to the Grand Palace, as an ancient custom dictated that the Second King's troops must actively protect the King and the Grand Palace in an emergency. King Rama V ordered his troops to surround the Front Palace, and Prince Vichaichan fled to the British embassy. After mediation, the powerful Western countries supported King Rama V, who abolished the title and introduced the Western-style "Crown Prince of Siam" for the heir apparent. Prince Vichaichan died one year later. The palace was turned into the National Museum's main building housing Thai art objects. Some walled remains of the old Front Palace complex can be found inside the Thammasat University complex.

He was impressed by the royal parks and residences he had seen there, which were leafy, relaxed, spacious and cool, as opposed to the Grand Palace, which was cramped with buildings for his numerous wives, children, and servants. These buildings blocked air flow inside the Grand Palace, which heated it up considerably. As a replacement, King Rama V started building the Dusit Palace. :The main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, touted as the world's largest golden teakwood residence and the former home of King Rama V. Get a ticket for 100 baht on the northwest side of the palace grounds, or enter for free if you still have the Grand Palace entry ticket (remains valid for a week). You can visit all the museums on the palace grounds with one ticket, except the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall and the Royal Elephant National Museum which cost an additional 50 baht. Keep in mind that the same dress codes apply here as in the Grand Palace, so leave shorts and sleeveless shirts in your hotel room. You must store your belongings in a locker before entering each museum. It's free everywhere, except at the Vimanmek Mansion, so if you're on a stringent budget, go to another museum first and leave your belongings there. The last (compulsory) tour of the Vimanmek Mansion starts around 15:15. Some of the smaller museums close at 15:30. Allow a full morning and afternoon if you want to see all the buildings and museums. Also make sure you get a map when buying the ticket, as the palace grounds are large and hard to navigate without a map.

The Bodhi Court is the birthplace of the 8 October 1973 student movement that grew into mass demonstrations for democracy and a new constitution. The students protested against the military junta and insisted on the release of 13 people that had been arrested for demanding a national charter. The number of protesters swelled to the hundreds of thousands and were relocated to the university's football field. On 13 October 1973 this large group of people started to move onto the streets. The following day, the government violently suppressed this mass demonstration, a key event in Thai modern history and the reason why the October 14 Memorial was erected near Khao San Road. On 4 October 1976, the Bodhi Court was the stage of an open-air stage performance that mocked the political culture of that time. When these parodies took hold of the newspapers' headlines on 6 October, the military junta violently attacked the student groups for being defamatory to the royal family. In 1991, a military coup d'état followed and a constitution was drafted that basically maintained the status quo. Students again gathered at the Bodhi Court to protest against the junta. After the 1992 general elections, the opposition to the junta gathered at the Bodhi Court, starting demonstrations that would evolve into more than 200,000 participants. The junta again cracked down in an event known as the Black May Massacre, but eventually all protesters were freed and the junta stepped down in favour of democracy. An important tree, indeed.

A huge chedi was built on top of the hill in the reign of King Rama III, but it collapsed during the construction process as the soil was too soft to support it. King Rama V bricked in the debris and started construction on a more modest chedi that still exists today. He placed some relics inside the chedi, by some believed to be the Buddha's teeth. A spiral staircase of 318 steps leads from the ground to a terrace and shrine-room — the Buddha's relics are housed in a gold-leaf-covered shrine at the centre of this area. Note that while the shrine itself is an ancient structure that creates an atmosphere worthy of respect, the area just below is more akin to a tacky fairground than one that leads to one of the nation's most sacred sites. Also, the harsh way of requesting the entrance fee does little to inspire the worthy pilgrim or traveller. In short, the shrine is definitely worth including in a travel itinerary, but do not expect a quiet and respectful environment. In the first week of November, the mount is illuminated with coloured lanterns and the compound turns into a large fun fair.

The King dictated that the Chinese group had to settle down around the area of Wat Kalayanamit, while the Portuguese people would have their houses built along the bank of the Chao Phraya River. The Portuguese had given military support to King Taksin to help him drive out the Burmese from Siam. In recognition of their support, King Taksin granted the Portuguese a plot of land for the building of a church. The first Santa Cruz Church was a wooden church built in 1770. When that church got into a state of decay, a new Chinese-style church was built here, as it was nearby the Chinese community that stayed at Wat Kalayanamit. That church was called "Kudichin church" (Chinese church), and the Portuguese who settled here were called "Farang Kudichin", which means "Westerners at the Chinese shrine". In 1916, the third and current Santa Cruz Church was built during the reign of King Rama IV. The church has a magnificent Italian-style architecture. The community around it still feels authentic, and is the birthplace of a famous kind of cupcake, the "Khanom Farang Kudichin".

Considering that name was inauspicious, King Rama IV renamed the ground "Thong Sanam Luang", or the royal ground, and all rice farming there was ceased. Later, King Rama V had Wang Na's eastern wall demolished and enlarged Sanam Luang to its current size. The place has been used as the crematorium ground for kings, members of the royal family and nobility, in addition to being a royal sporting ground. 365 tamarind trees are placed around it. Sanam Luang is Bangkok's equivalent of a 'speaker's corner' where the people get together to talk politics. In recent history, the ground has been used for political rallies and demonstrations, such as the yellow and red shirt protests in the late 2000s. At December 5th, the birthday of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej, literally a million people come here to celebrate his birthday. Every night, a flea market is held on the streets surrounding it.

In 1861, King Rama IV gave permission for the construction of the Protestant Union Chapel around Charoen Krung Road, which was commonly known as the English Church. As Protestantism grew, a larger church was required, and in 1904, King Rama V gave permission for the construction of the Christ Church on the condition that Protestants of all nationalities or sects could use it as their house of worship. You might not believe it now, but back then this area was a farming area with canals and orchards. Due to the economic growth of the Silom area, it is now right in the middle of office buildings and condominiums. Many Christian expats and locals gather here on Sundays for the religious service. It is a beautiful white church that is also interesting for the occasional visitor. Its interior has been completely renovated in 2008, restoring the amazing stained glass windows from 1905.

Local visitors of the shrine follow the Mahayana school of Buddhism, which is different from the Theravada school that is dominant in Thailand. The statue of the goddess Ming, to whom the shrine is dedicated, is the highlight of the temple. The statue was carved out from a single piece of solid teak and shows Ming in the attitude of giving blessings. It was carved in China in Tang Dynasty-style and is believed to be around 800 years old. The statue has been in possession of the foundation since 1958, when it was taken out of China and placed inside the temple. The exterior's architecture is typically Chinese with an impressive roof and beautiful teak carvings of dragons and other Chinese symbols. It is particularly lively during Chinese New Year.

King Rama I built the palace for his nephew Prince Kasattiyanuchit, and since then, it has been a residence of many high-ranked princes, including King Rama III who lived here when he still was still known as Prince Krommuen Jesadabodin. The last prince to live here was Prince Naris, who moved out in 1934 when the palace was turned into an art school. The palace is a combination of Thai and European-style buildings. Just walking around the campus is a fun activity, as usually there are some art projects by students going on. 50 baht gets you into the library, which has plenty of English-language books about the Grand Palace, art, culture, religion, architecture and travel. Also in the Wang Tha Phra compound are the Silpa Bhirasri National Museum and the Art Centre Silpakorn University.

Thailand had good relations with Germany, although eventually King Rama VI joined the Allies by declaring war on Germany and sent a militia of 1,284 volunteers to Europe on 20 June 1918. King Rama IV said that joining the Allies "would be an excellent opportunity for us to gain equality with other nations". Thailand had lost land to France and the United Kingdom and had to accept the imposition of extraterritorial rights for the citizens of these nations. By joining the war with the Allies, he hoped that they would be more flexible in amending those treaties in future. The expeditionary force returned to Thailand on 21 September 1919 and the ashes of the dead veterans were taken to be enshrined here three days later. The names of 19 soldiers killed in the Western Front have been inscribed.

Every town in Thailand has a similar city pillar shrine, so there are thousands of these all across the country. The original pillar was carved out of cassia wood, measuring 75 cm thick and 27 cm high. In the reign of King Rama IV, the old dilapidated pillar was replaced by a new one that measures 270 cm in height with a wide base of 175 cm. At that time it was placed in the prang-shaped shrine as seen today. Thonburi was merged into Bangkok in 1972, and its city pillar has been incorporated in the shrine. Hundreds of locals pray and place flowers here every day, as they believe the shrine has the power to bring good luck. Traditional dance ceremonies are often held, paid by wealthy families that saw their wishes granted.

The park then became a property of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, before being turned into a public park in 1960. The basic layout still resembles its design by King Rama IV. It is a lush garden created around a lake, home to glasshouses, ancient trees and wooden pagodas. A great place to relax and escape the heat. After work, many locals run around the paths for exercise or do aerobics on (very) loud music. There's also a table tennis table and always someone who wants to play. At the south end of the park is a marble monument dedicated to HM Queen Sunantha Kumareerat and HRH Prince Kannaporn Phetcharat, who died in a boating accident during the reign of King Rama V.

His intention was to make it a Thammayut Sect temple, according to the customary practice of having three eminent temples in the capital city of the Kingdom (the others being Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana). A place of interest in the temple is the royal image hall (Phra Wihan Luang), which has mural paintings depicting royal ceremonies, including the "Legend of the Solar Eclipse" phenomenon that occurred during the reign of King Rama IV. There are some interesting artifacts in the temple, including some of King Rama IV's ashes that are now interred at the base of the Buddha. Also staged here are gifts King Rama IV got when he was installed as a monarch, such as French floor and ceiling lamps, English street lamps and a German clock that is still ticking today.

The outer wall of the cloister has more than 150 Buddha images lined up, and as they are currently being re-gilded, they are in various states of repair. Outside is an open courtyard with many Chinese statues. The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) is a huge red frame on the plaza opposite the main entrance of Wat Suthat. The swing was used in an annual ceremony where teams of young men would try to swing high enough to retrieve a sack of gold that was tied to a pole about 25 metres high in the air. The ceremony has been banned since 1932, as many people got injured or died trying. The swing was fully renovated in 2007 and now looks as good as new.

It is near the Oriental Hotel and the French Embassy in an area that still captures somewhat of its French history. The current church dates from the 1910s, when the building was completely reconstructed in a Romanesque style. It was heavily damaged by bombing in World War II, but was restored after extensive repairs. Its rectangular structure and red brick exterior makes it stand out from the dull white surroundings. Its interior is spacious with a high ornate ceiling. Pope John Paul II visited the church in 1984, showing the prominence of the church in the Roman Catholic community of Thailand. The only religious service in English is held Sundays at 10:00.

As with all the new museums in town, it's a so-called "discovery museum", in which visitors can play and interact with the objects shown. It is a lot fun, for children and adults alike, and informative at a superficial level. First you watch a subtitled short film about Thai-foreign interaction, with some Thai inside jokes about foreigners. Then you'll walk through several historically-themed rooms, starting in prehistory and ending in the modern age. Make sure your camera is charged and its memory unit empty, as there are many photo opportunities. You can sit in a tuk-tuk, prepare fake Thai food, bomb medieval armies, wear colonial-age clothing, present a news programme and sit in a 50s-style diner.

As the Portuguese were one of the most important trading nations in Siam, this church was built with a land grant from King Rama I in 1786, about four years after Bangkok was established as Siam's capital. As Portugal's influence overseas diminished, the Portuguese community was dispersed and the church fell into disuse. Due to the Indochina Wars of the mid-20th century, many Catholic Vietnamese and Cambodians fled to Bangkok and adopted this church as their main house of worship. Throughout its history, it has been rebuilt twice, with the present church dating from the 1890s. The cream-coloured church has a towering spire, an interesting set of European-style stained-glass windows, as well as a statue of Christ that is carried through the streets at Easter.

King Rama VII ruled in a turbulent time of Thailand's history; he was the last King who enjoyed absolute monarchy, as well as the first King under a constitutional monarchy. Significant events and stories relating to King Rama VII are exhibited, including his succession to the throne, royal activities, political reform, promulgation of the constitution, royal utensils and memorabilia, as well as his life after abdication and death in the United Kingdom. The demolished Sala Chaloem Krung Theatre that used to stand in the nearby area is imitated with old films being projected.

However, Pibulsongkhram was kicked out in 1944 and the patch of land gained by Thailand was handed back to Laos and Cambodia in 1945, making the "victory" a little hollow. These days this spiky Bangkok landmark is better known as Bangkok's largest local bus hub. If travelling north by Skytrain, you'll be treated to a 180-degree curving panorama of the monument, and this is the best view you can get as actually reaching the base of the monument would require passing through a triple-laned traffic circle maelstrom of buses. The public toilets at the major bus stop directly across from the monument costs 2 baht per entry.

If you want a nice nightly picture of the chedi, walk on the Memorial Bridge at dusk when it is beautifully illuminated. However, most visitors come for the Khao Mor Cemetery, a large mound at the entrance of the temple. The mound is covered with many different shrines, chedis, spirit houses and even a doll house. There's a lot to take in, but its certainly a fun walk. The shallow pool has some turtles swimming around, which you can feed with food bought from the stalls outside. Another attraction is the small two-room museum with Khon masks, papier-mache pigs and other cultural objects.

What makes this fort unique compared to Phra Sumen Fort is that a part of the old city wall is still intact; it runs about 200 metres south along Maha Chai Road. An almost a century old community lives in shanties between the old city wall and the canal, but the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration has been trying to turn it into a public park for tourists (as was done around Phra Sumen Fort). After a 14-year legal dispute, it seems like a compromise has been reached where some houses of the old community will stay and be turned into museums.

The viharn is in a typical Thai style, but the two flanking buildings look Chinese. Inside the viharn is a large Buddha image named Phraputtatrirattananayok, which is 15.44 metres tall and 11.75 metres wide. It is so large that it almost entirely filled the interior of the hall. The image is called Sampokong by worshippers of Thai-Chinese descent. The inner courtyard is decorated with statues and gates imported from China. Every day during the Chinese New Year festival, this temple is crowded with thousands of Thai-Chinese visitors.

The revolving roofdeck is practical for viewing different parts of the city, but not so handy if you're trying to make some quality pictures of the city's skyline. It is best to visit just before dusk and watch the sun go down from the tower. Afterwards, you can visit the Rooftop Bar at the 83rd floor, which has a very romantic atmosphere and can best be recommended for couples or those in love. You can sit beside a huge window that gives a good view over the city, and professional bands perform nightly. Be early as the seats fill up quickly after dark.

Beside the house itself, on display are traditional tools, arts and crafts used by Lanna farmers and fishermen from northern Thailand in olden times, as well as a large selection of Thai flora in its yard. There is a heavy focus on the cultural heritage of northern Thailand, as that's where the house and most of the tools on display came from. The only downside of the museum is that it's quite small, so don't expect to spend here longer than 30 minutes (or even 15 minutes if you're quick).

During all these years, Chinese businessmen in the area came to the shrine for refuge and to improve the prosperity of their businesses. The roof is made of glazed coloured tiles with two ceramic-clad dragons on top. The two main columns beside the entrance also both feature a ceramic-clad dragon. Inside there is a shrine dedicated to Leng Buai Ia and his wife in the centre, a shrine dedicated to the deity Going-Wu on the left and a shrine dedicated to the Queen of Heaven on the right.

The park has a lake with boats for rent and with a cycle track around it, and is popular among early-morning fitness enthusiasts, but there's little reason to wander in during the daytime heat. The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra does, however, put on occasional performances in the winter. There are rather large lizards in the park — they are well worth a look. They tend to spend most of their time in the water of the lake. Do not get too close to one, as they can bite.

There is a permanent exhibition addressing the question, "What is design, and how it is influenced by factors like society, history, politics, economics, geography and religion?" There is also a temporary exhibition that often changes. If you want to enter the resource centre and the library, you can get a free one-day pass. You can only do this once and you must carry your passport with you. Spend the day reading amazing design books, or just using the Internet. If you want to visit the resource centre and library again later, you'll need to pay for a subscription.

Quite impressive when seen from a distance (especially at sunrise and sunset), but maybe not worth the hazard involved in running across five lanes of Bangkok traffic for a closer look. It commemorates the June 1932 military coup d'état that led to the country's first democratic constitution in place of absolute rule. Demonstrators gathered here in 1973, 1976 and 1992 in their struggle for democracy, signifying the important role this monument has played in recent Thai history.

Another move occurred in 1998, when HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej dismantled the building and moved it to the Dusit Palace. Now the hall displays pottery from the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, which were recovered in 1976 from underwater shipwrecks at the bottom of the Gulf of Thailand (off the coast of the provinces of Rayong and Chantaburi). It is believed that these ships were Chinese and Vietnamese trade junks from the 15th to the 18th century.

This significant temple was the residence of many supreme patriarchs of the Rattankosin Period, including Somdej Toah, a highly respected monk in the reign of King Rama V. Things of note are the beautiful mural paintings in the ordination hall, the image hall and the bell tower. Outside is a row of bells lined up. It is believed that ringing all of them in a row will bring good luck. The front of the building is right at the banks of the Chao Phraya River, and it is beautifully lit at nighttime.

Behind the temple is the Execution Stone, where King Rama III ordered the execution of Krommaluang Rak Ronnaret for planning a rebellion against him. The canal in front of the temple is a holy site as the ash of cremated members of the royal family and the royal elephants are scattered here. The temple has recently been completely restored, making the golden Buddha images look shinier than ever.

It had several names, but got its permanent name during the reign of King Rama IV, who extensively renovated it and raised its status to a third-grade royal temple. The temple takes up a vast amount of space and has an extensive courtyard. The murals inside the ordination hall show a set of Buddhist pilgrims. The large reclining Buddha is worth seeing. Thai people come over to place small bills of money next to it as they believe it brings good luck.

It is devoted to King Vajiravudh (Rama VI), who asked the Italian government for an artist to teach and promote art in Thailand (which at that time was seen as not able to cope with European standards). King Vajiravudh is displayed as standing in his ceremonial uniform and holding a sword. It's not a coincidence that Lumphini Park is its location: King Vajiravudh donated this large plot of land to the city's citizens by turning it into a public park.

The temple is worth a visit, though, with nice murals, crisp sounding temple bells hanging from the eves, Bougainvillea vines and beautiful trees. There is no charge for admission and you are welcome to pay respect to the Buddha images or just find a little tranquility away from the throngs of backpackers on Khao San proper.

Most travellers like to visit this place for its serene atmosphere with crocodiles, birds, dogs, birds, and relaxed monks. Crocodiles have been living in the small pond beside the temple for about fifty years. At that time, a crocodile that was found in the Chao Phraya River was brought to this temple for the safety of Bangkok's citizens. This original crocodile can still be viewed in the glass case above the pond.

The image was only rediscovered about 50 years ago when it dropped from a crane while being moved. This cracked the plaster exterior that was (as it's said) applied to hide the image from the invading Burmese army. There is an impressive white structure with a golden spire next to the temple, that reaches higher than many other buildings in the district.

The decorations used throughout the temple consist of elephants and tiered umbrellas, which indicates that it is a royal temple. In the ordination hall, the viharn is unusual, as it is raised on a one-storey high platform. There are plenty of shrines inside the temple, one of them dedicated to King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) and another one to the Hindu god Ganesha.

It is in a highly unusual style: the wat itself is a five-storied gleaming white structure with rows of Buddhas and nice views from up top, very elegant, calm and relaxing after the crowds at the big temples. A good view of Bangkok is afforded from the top tier. The 37 metal spires signify the 37 virtues towards Enlightenment. At night, the square around it is beautifully illuminated. Also check out the Buddhist market at the rear of the complex.

It was built to function as a place of worship close to the Sra Pathum Palace. At the temple is the Phra Meru Mas, a reconstruction of the crematorium of the Princess Mother, whose remains were transferred here after her cremation at Sanam Luang. During the May 2010 red shirt protests the temple was a safe haven for protesting women and children.

She turned one building into a museum that honours the Queen Grandmother and shows her contributions to Thai society. The museum starts in the exhibition hall, that shows HM Queen Savang Vadhana's biography, and then moves to her residence, the Phra Tamnak Yai building. Make a reservation in advance and request an English-speaking guide (at no extra cost).

Sunthon Phu, one of Thailand's greatest poets, resided in this temple during his monkhood in the early 1840s. The quarters where he spent three years of his life are preserved at the rear of the compound, and might be turned into a museum. In 1986, UNESCO declared Sunthon Phu one of the world's greatest poets.

It had been regularly restored since the reign of King Rama I through to the reign of King Rama VII, except in the sixth reign. Some of the temple's principal buildings, especially Phra Ubosot, the ordination hall, which houses mural paintings by Khrua In Khong, were badly damaged by bombing during World War II. The buildings were later restored to their good condition.

The antennas and eyes of the robot are not just for the looks, but all have practical functions. Now the building has a kind of retro feel. It is closed to the public, but you can best see it riding the Skytrain between Chong Nonsi and Sala Daeng BTS stations. So take a look from the window!

King Rama III saw that steam ships were slowly replacing old junks, and wanted the people to remember how much wealth they had brought to Siam. In the early nineteenth century, Chinese people started moving to the area, and the temple is still popular among the Chinese community residing there.

Some of the items on display are handbags, baskets, pots, jewellery, figurines, and silk, all created using traditional techniques. HM Queen Sirikit set up this foundation to preserve and revitalise these traditional Thai handicrafts and techniques, as demand for them has significantly decreased in modern Thai society.

Most interesting is the part right after the second entrance. Four golden statues will greet you, each with a symbolic object: a parasol, a pagoda, a snake's head, and a mandolin. It is one of Chinatown's liveliest temples with many Thai-Chinese praying and burning incense.

The most important building, the Phiman Chakri Hall, is made in a beautiful Art Nouveau style with silk wallpapers and ornate murals. Every Saturday, volunteers give two free guided tours through the palace that take about two hours. It is also possible to visit on weekdays, but you must call ahead to make an appointment and pay 500 baht.

The building serves as a venue for royal and state ceremonies and was used as the national assembly building before it was moved to the current building behind it. Currently it houses beautiful arts and crafts made with traditional Thai techniques.

A major feature of this wat is the Royal Mausoleum on the west side of the temple grounds, which includes four white memorials in which the ashes of four Queens of King Rama V are interred. The one for Queen Savang Vadhana, grandmother of the current King, is the first on the left as you walk in eastward from the road.

Saen Saep Canal was dug for transporting troops and weapons to Cambodia. During excavations Pang Lila, a 1.2 m tall Sukhothai-style walking Buddha image, was found here. The temple was renamed Wat Theplila during the reign of King Chulalongkorn.

There are many other museums inside the complex, including the Congdon Anatomical Museum, Sood Sangvichien Prehistoric Museum, Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medicine Museum, Parasitology Museum, Ellis Pathological Museum and the Veekit Veeranuvati Museum on traditional Thai medicine.

The goal is to learn children in a fun way about human life, science, culture, society, nature and the environment, and there is an exhibition in honor of HM Queen Sirikit. While mostly catering to Thai families, foreigners can bring their children as well.

Phra Sumen Fort was constructed in 1783 during the reign of King Rama I to protect the city from potential foreign naval invasions. The fort has an observation tower and two levels of battlements with its original canons still in place.

Besides Indians, there are also Thai visitors as Buddha images stand side by side Hindu deities inside the temple. As it is the most sacred place for the Indian community in Bangkok, taking pictures inside the temple compound is not allowed.

It is a very lively shrine with many Thai-Chinese coming over to worship the Da Feng Zu God, make merit and get rid of their bad fortune. Many satin banners and paper offerings such as fake money are burned to ensure that the spirit of the deceased has lots of good things in the afterlife.

As King Rama V tried to modernise Thailand along European lines, you can see the first Thai indoor bathroom, the first typewriter with Thai characters, and some of the first portrait paintings of Thailand.

The permanent exhibits are a mixed bag — there are some terrific new displays and dioramas on Thai history, but many other buildings are dusty collections of artifacts without much by way of explanation. A good way to cope with this is by taking the free guided tour in English, held on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 09:30. Allow a full afternoon to see this one as it is fairly large.

This museum displays some of the most sadistic punishments imaginable, and these were actually carried out to offenders not that long ago. The museum can only be visited after making an appointment, but some punishment instruments can be seen from the public park outside, so you don't necessarily need to enter the museum.

There is a library with books about stamps, and you can buy stamps at the ground floor of the building. Next to the museum is a room that looks and acts like a post office of the past. In front of the building you'll find Thai and foreign postal boxes from various periods.

It is possible for non-Sikhs to enter, but they need to take off their shoes and cover their head with an orange cloth. The Sikh community gathers in large numbers on Sundays and during religious festivals. They serve free Indian vegetarian food in the community kitchen on these occasions.